We bumbled up the M11 to the flat and nondescript, but unexpectedly unspoilt, landscape of southwest Cambridgeshire, beyond the radio telescopes of the University Observatory, where we stayed the weekend in old parkland once depicted by Kip and Knyff.   The statues of the four seasons were bought after the war from Harrods, the gardens used to be tended by seven gardeners, we looked out over ornamental yew trees puffing yellow pollen, and the greenhouses were now decayed:-