I went for a walk in the evening drizzle across Newborough Warren.   It was a mistake.   An area of desolate sand dunes, like a moonscape, populated only by a few ponies munching grass, one is guided from hillock to hillock by a set of wooden posts since otherwise one would be entirely disoriented.   The hills were no more than distant shadows as I looked across the mudflats to Abermenai Point:-