I walked through the backstreets of Chora on Easter morning (Greek Easter) which were empty but for a few lone Japanese tourists and a family roasting a suckling pig – or maybe it was paschal lamb – in the street. It was uncannily quiet after the Easter parade with candles sent from Jerusalem and there was a blue blue sky:-
Tag Archives: Greece
Mykonoan Decoration
One of the characteristics of Mykonoan architecture is a form of incised decoration which is clearly of quite ancient origins, a type of folk art which helps to give the houses individuality. Here are some examples:-
Delos Museum
I had forgotten how completely wonderful the Delos Museum is, not perhaps by the standard of modern museography, but as a survival of the early period of archaeology, digging and discovering great works of ancient art, and retaining them on site, unornamented and unexplained:-
Delos
The weather set fair and the wind down, we set sail for Delos, the great trading centre of the Cyclades and birthplace of Apollo, now nearly uninhabited, but full of ancient remains. I had forgotten how complete it is, a winding city street going up the hill, past innumerable houses and shops up to the ancient theatre, all partially reconstructed, but still an astonishing survival:-
Mykonoan Churches
In honour of Good Friday, I’m posting some more pictures of Mykonoan churches and church towers:-
Mykonoan Windmills
It is not surprising that it is known as The Island of the Winds. Yesterday the wind got up and we can’t take the ferry to Delos. This morning I thought I would explore the windmills which are such a feature of the island, prominent in the town and on the hillside above. They apparently date back to the 16th century when the island was occupied by the Venetians as part of their maritime empire and are an admirable example of form and function, the subject of Nick Grimshaw’s dissertation at the Architectural Association:-
Mykonos
It’s hard to take any photographs of Mykonos which haven’t been taken a thousand times before – the town bleached in the sun, the universal whitewash, the straggling backstreets interspersed with small churches, and the ornamental chimneypots:-
Marc Corbiau
We are staying on Mykonos in a villa designed by Marc Corbiau, a Belgian architect who has perfected a combination of well-considered sybaritic modernism with a sculptural approach to the Mykonoan vernacular:-
Bassae Frieze (1)
Since visiting Bassae, I have become interested in how the British Museum acquired the Bassae Frieze, a subject much less studied than the Elgin Marbles. The answer is that the site was known from the writings of Pausanias and was routinely visited by archaeologists from the time of the French architect J. Bocher in 1765, who was murdered on his second visit. In 1811, the site was recorded by Cockerell and the German archaeologist, Carl Haller von Hallerstein, whose drawings were lost at sea. One of the group spotted the carving of the combat of a Greek and a Centaur down a foxhole in the debris, Cockerell made a rough sketch, and sought permission to excavate the site from Veli Pasha, the local Turkish governor. The site was then excavated the following year by a group who called themselves the Society of Travellers, led by Haller and Otto von Stackelberg, but without Cockerell who was by then in Sicily. In the 1830 Supplement to Stuart and Revett’s Antiquities of Athens, Cockerell describes how they built huts in a little settlement which they called Francopolis. ‘They had frequently fifty or eighty men at work in the temple, and a band of Arcadian music was constantly playing…every day some new and beautiful work of the best age of sculpture was brought to light’. The Bassae frieze was thus discovered, reassembled in Zante and sold at auction in May 1814. Known as the ‘Phigalean Marbles’, they were bought by Sir James Campbell, the Governor of the Ionian Islands, on behalf of the British Museum and were subsequently widely reproduced, not least in the library of the Traveller’s Club and by Cockerell in his building of the Ashmolean.
The Temple of Eleusis
We were nearly the sole visitors to the archaeological remains of Eleusis, where the Eleusinian Mysteries were celebrated in a temple to which access was restricted and which seated over 3,000. All the remains and fragments of the several temples are rather arbitrarily arranged, piled up indiscriminately as if awaiting rearrangement one day – the remains of columns, inscriptions, a marble foot – all excavated some time ago and left evocatively in amongst the wild flowers:-


















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