The Kunstmuseum was closed for renovation when I came to the art fair last year.   Now that it has reopened, it is possible to see its astonishing collection of early German paintings, including Grunewald’s great Crucifixion and Holbein’s Dead Christ;  not to mention a room full of Fuseli’s, labelled – he was born in Zurich, the son of a Swiss painter – as Füssli, and a great collection of classic modern paintings on the top floor, all displayed in a grand, but austere, slightly monastic building.   Opposite is a new extension, neo-brutalist and even more austere:-