It’s not the first time that I’ve admired S. Gaetano with its crumbling, seventeenth-century baroque façade and vividly white urns and statuary, built for the Theatines between 1604 and 1648.   It doesn’t seem to get into the standard tourist guides, no doubt because it’s seventeenth century, but is described with great enthusiasm by Michael Levey as ‘rising like a tree peony in a prison cell’:-