I went to the party to celebrate the 25th. anniversary of St. John, the wonderful and austerely carnivorous restaurant established by Fergus Henderson, who was trained at the Architectural Association and has an eye for design as well as pigs, and Trevor Gulliver, also once an architect, in St. John Street in an old smokehouse in the days when, nearly impossible to remember, property was cheap owing to its proximity to the meat market. I was reminded of the fact that we interviewed Trevor Gulliver to run the restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery. At the time, he had a smart restaurant, Putney Bridge, on the banks of the Thames. Over the years, I’ve had many memorably delicious meals at St. John and even more at St. John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields, as well as living as much as possible on their bread and doughnuts from Maltby Street. I salute their achievement !