Amongst the many eighteenth-century visitors to Delos was Lord Charlemont in 1749 on his Grand Tour.   He had chartered a French frigate called L’Aimable Vainqueur and kept an unpublished account of his travels in a volume which he entitled A Traveller’s Essays Containing an Account of Manners rather than Things.   They went first to Constantinople, then toured round the Greek islands, spending a few days in Mykonos where he had ‘An Amorous Adventure’ (island girls were freely available for temporary marriage) and then travelling out on a small boat to Delos where he admired ‘Pillars, some of very great size, altars without number but miserably decayed, and heaps of stones’.   They slept on beds of dry seaweed ‘under an awning made of the sail of our boat’ and spent three nights there enjoying ‘the sprightly whimsical music’ of the crew in the evening.