It being our last day in Anglesey, we went down to the beach at Llanddwyn for a last look, this summer, across the beach at the lighthouse, long disused and boarded up in March 1973, and what remains of St. Dwynwen, an early medieval chapel which was abandoned in the seventeenth century and which Clough Williams-Ellis proposed restoring in 1906, not long after he had left the AA:-

I have been reading Islanders: The Pacific in the Age of Empire in preparation for our exhibition, Oceania, which opens next month. It’s written by Nicholas Thomas, the Director of the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge and co-curator of the exhibition, together with Peter Brunt of Victoria University in Wellington NZ. The book is fascinating, but horrific, telling the story of how Europeans and, most especially, the British, discovered, appropriated, ruthlessly exploited, and pretty well destroyed the complex and polymorphous cultures of the Pacific islands during the nineteenth century. Captain Cook’s first expedition which set off from Plymouth in August 1768, 250 years ago, was relatively scientific, interested in exploration more than exploitation. It was mostly welcomed by those they met. But the narrative thereafter is of traders and missionaries, many of them vastly much more savage, arrogant and uncouth than the peoples they met and killed. It’s a history of which one can only be ashamed.

It’s one night off the full moon.   We were able to watch it again rise behind Moel Eilio, but it’s nearly impossible to photograph, at least with a Samsung, not showing the Old Man and bleeding into the sky:-

Having visited Caernarvon twice in the last week, I can’t help but wonder why it is that a town with such a wealth of wonderful historic architecture, a well preserved medieval town plan, many good eighteenth and nineteenth century civic buildings, and one of the greatest medieval castles in Western Europe never feels quite as lively and economically energetic as it so easily could and should be.  

The answer is fairly obvious.   A lot of the life of the town has moved out to the main roads on the outskirts, with the big supermarkets, Tescos and Morrisons, lined up on the A487 which carved its way through the suburbs in the 1970s.   There is one big new development of 2008, but it is 100% out of sympathy with the historic town, stands apart from it, and significantly damages the views of the Castle from across the Menai Straits.

But what, one wonders, could be done about it ?  I am posting the memorial stone marking the opening of the Market Hall, which now houses a Thai restaurant:-

On the way back from Llanfaglan, we saw Caernarvon from the other side of the river, where one can appreciate the full scale of the Castle and the way it dominates the town:-

We walked up to admire Segontium Terrace, high above the water:-

And the mildly gothicised Ebenezer Wesleyan Chapel nearby:-

We went to see St. Baglan, a deserted church on a slope on the side of Foryd Bay, as charming and atmospheric a site and church as can be, empty and long disused, but with a strong sense of rustic piety:-

It was the same today as yesterday:  rain in the day, clearing in the evening.   I walked down the other side of the estuary, where it is all samphire and marshland and one sees the same view, only more pastoral:-

We have never, for some reason, been down to Church Bay in the north-west of the island:  a small inlet which used to have a brick works and now has a crofthouse, Swtan, which was restored in the 1990s with the help of European funding:-