Chez Panisse

We had dinner last night in the private room at Clarke’s where the prints by Lucian Freud hang.   We were greeted at the door by someone who seemed vaguely familiar.   It was Alice Waters over from Berkeley for a few days with a pastry chef from Switzerland to celebrate the thirtieth anniversary of Clarke’s.   It was quite an event with all the chefs, including Sally, lined up on the street for a team photograph.   Romilly was able to tell her that we had once driven from Chicago for dinner at Chez Panisse.

image

image

Standard

West Norwood Crematorium

Having spent my youth exploring crematoria, it has been a pleasure to be able to see the West Norwood Crematorium, founded by Act of Parliament in 1836 and consecrated in December 1837:

image

image Continue reading

Standard

Beamish and McGlue

My enterprising first cousin once removed, after training as an actress, opened Beamish and McGlue, with Casey McGlue, to sell only ethically sourced products to the citizens of Norwood.   It’s at 461, Norwood Road:

image

image Continue reading

Standard

Charleston

I had promised to join a group of the RA’s patrons on a tour of Charleston, so found myself on an early train to Lewes and arriving at the house as I seldom see it, empty of tourists and in the autumn sun.   I had never previously noticed that they have a version of the London tube map showing the interelationships of its various residents, who slept with who, who was in love with who, and who fathered who.   It is surprising having seen this map to discover how narrow the beds are, but they apparently spent a lot of time up on the downs:

image

image

Standard

Romilly Saumarez Smith (2)

I was faintly reprimanded for writing about Romilly’s exhibition before seeing it.   But now I can write about it having experienced it so beautifully displayed in grand empty studio space designed by Deborah Saunt and David Hills.   The work itself is on long shelves, the individual pieces held upright by lead fishing weights, or buried under the floor or in a chapel-like annexe, with minuscule inscriptions and dots like the legion d’honneur for work which had sold.   What everyone said, and was obviously true, is that it’s extremely rare to see jewellery displayed as works of art, isolated in white space so that one is compelled to engage with the detailed character of each individual work, with magnifying glasses provided, its ornament and encrustation, a modernist version of a cabinet of curiosities, echoed by cases of Edmund’s pots.

The work is very hard to photograph, especially the quality of natural daylight, and I’m not sure I’ve succeeded:

image

image Continue reading

Standard

Romilly Saumarez Smith (1)

A golden rule of my blog is that I am never ever allowed to mention my close family, only dead relations.   But I have been allowed to breach this rule today in celebration of the fact that my wife Romilly is holding an exhibition of her jewellery entitled Newfoundland jointly with work by Edmund de Waal in Edmund’s studio.   She discovered several years ago that it is possible to buy fragments of Roman and medieval metalwork found by metal detectors and sold on ebay and has gradually acquired a small collection of buckles and thimbles and buttons and rings which she has adapted into modern palimpsests, evocative of their history, but enriched and embellished and ornamented as well.

Standard

Dennis Hopper (2)

I’ve just been to a most unusual and surprising fundraising event, which consisted not at all of asking for money, but instead an evening of meditation and poetry round the photographs of Dennis Hopper.   Brett Rogers, the Director of the Photographers’ Gallery, spoke around the theme of loss and rediscovery, the ways in which contemporary culture is interested in the forgotten archive, the box of negatives left in a Chicago lock-up, the fascination with the fact that Hopper’s photographs are as he left them.   Peter Aspden of the Financial Times talked about the contrast between New York of the 1960s, the dominant culture of the period, and Los Angeles, more laid back and hippy, the culture of Pacific time.   And then Jean Wainwright talked about the encounter of Warhol and Hopper.   What struck me is how close and yet how remote Hopper’s world is, fifty years on.

Standard

John Gibson RA

Another unsung hero of the RA’s history is the neoclassical sculptor, John Gibson.   Born near Conway in north Wales, apprenticed to a cabinetmaker in Liverpool, he was encouraged to turn to sculpture by Samuel Franceys and the collector, William Roscoe.   He exhibited at the Liverpool Academy in 1810 and attended its lectures in anatomy.   In 1817, he gravitated to London and to the circle of neoclassicists round Flaxman.   The next step was Rome, where he studied under Canova, helped found the British Academy of Arts in Rome with Charles Eastlake and Joseph Severn, and received innumerable commissions from British aristocrats on the grand tour.   He stayed in Rome for the rest of his life, grew rich and famous, was made a member of eleven academies and left his entire estate to the Royal Academy to allow them to build an extra storey on the top of Burlington House (where the Sackler Gallery now is) to show his work.

Lanseer

Portrait of John Gibson, R.A. ca. 1850. by Sir Edwin Landseer R.A. Ⓒ Royal Academy of Arts

Standard

Sydney Smirke RA

In talking about the Summer Exhibition last night, I realised how much of its quality and character derives from the scale and variety of the great exhibition galleries which were added to the back of Burlington House by Sydney Smirke, opening in 1868.   I had always thought, quite erroneously, that he was the son of Robert Smirke, the architect of the British Museum.   Wrong.   He was the son of Robert Smirke RA, an early student of the Royal Academy Schools, who had eight children, including Robert and Sydney (and Sir Edward, an archaeologist).   Sydney was trained in the office of his older brother and took over as project architect at the British Museum after his brother’s retirement in 1846, so was responsible for the construction, if not the design, of the round reading-room.   But he also undertook a host of other projects, including churches in Lancashire, large country houses and three St. James’s clubs – the Oxford and Cambridge (with Robert), the Conservative Club (with Basevi), and the Carlton (on his own).   A major, and rather underestimated, classical architect.

Smirke

Sydney Smirke RA, Design for Gallery III, Burlington House, Piccadilly, Westminster, London: perspective of gallery looking east, c.1866-67.

Standard

Summer Exhibition

I was asked to give the Annual Arts Lecture at Hurlingham last night and was encouraged to talk about the Summer Exhibition, which I have never done before.   I kept on getting in a muddle between ‘we’ and ‘they’, because it is we, the Royal Academy, who put it on and they, the Royal Academicians, who arrange, oversee and orchestrate it.   But I hope I managed to convey something of a) its extraordinarily long history b) the continuity in its system of organisation and ethos and b) the curious tension which has existed forever between its extreme democracy, in that anyone can enter and does, and its extreme selectivity, in that it has always been dominated not just in its process but also in what it shows by the relatively small number of RAs.

Standard