There is a certain charm to arriving in Venice so severely out of season. I embarked from the tram and crossed a bridge to S. Nicola da Tolentino, begun by Scamozzi, its facade completed by Andrea Tirali in 1714:-


Next door is one of the buildings I was keen to see – Carlo Scarpa’s entrance to the Istituto di Architettura di Venezia, where Scarpa taught:-

I went to the Scuola di San Rocco. I had forgotten how amazing it is, and not just for the Tintorettos, so powerful and moving as they are, but for Francesco Pianta’s seventeenth-century wood carving as well:-





