As our holiday has been dominated by the writings of Gerald Brenan – not just South from Granada, published in 1957, but the earlier Face of Spain, describing his 1949 tour of Franco’s Spain – we decided to spend our last day on a pilgrimage to Yegen, the village where he lived in the early 1920s and whose inhabitants he described so dispassionately.

The route was precipitous, up the valley, through a parched landscape planted with intermittent olive groves and almond trees, through Cádiar, and then climbing again until we reached Yegen, which seemed wholly deserted and without anywhere to eat, and hard to imagine Gerald Brenan setting off to walk to Granada to meet Lytton Strachey off the train:-


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