Museo del Duomo, Florence

I have wanted to se the Museo del Duomo in Florence ever since it was reinstalled by Timothy Verdon in 2015 and described by many as a model of good quality museum display.

It includes Ghiberti’s east Baptistery doors, won in competition in 1401 when he was only twenty one, beautiful, but still essentially gothic images:-

Next door, the Gates of Paradise.   I don’t think I’ve ever seen the originals before or studied the combination of full and half relief and quality of the bronze modelling:-

This is Brunelleschi’s death mask, as he was on his deathbed, exhausted from the effort of constructing the dome, in 1446:-

One of Donatello’s prophets, very early:-

Habbakuk:-

I liked the chalice of Cardinal Giulio de’ Medici:-

And the opportunity to see Donatello’s Cantoria:-

Bandinelli’s Self portrait:-

You end with Michelangelo’s Pietà:-

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Old Chelsea (2)

Having upset people with my rude comment about the King’s Road, I am making reparation by adding some extra good things in Chelsea on my walk from the V&A to Petyt Hall.

The houses in Beaufort Street, looking south towards St. Luke’s:-

St. Luke itself, designed by James Savage in 1820 in pre-ecclesiological Gothic:-

And Argyle House, actually on the King’s Road, by Giacomo Leoni, grandly reticent, with its nicely wonky urns on the façade:-

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Old Chelsea (1)

I’ve never really seen the point of Chelsea – too posh for my taste and the King’s Road long ago turned boring, apart from the Chelsea Arts Club and Green & Stone.   But as I turned off the King’s Road and walked down Glebe Place, I realised that there is still the residue of the old, late nineteenth-century artists’ community with houses by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Philip Webb, a very odd house (no.50) designed by John Lowe in the 1880s, a completely bogus and mis-spelt plaque recording where Alfred Munnings lived, and eighteenth-century houses in Cheyne Row, vestiges of what was once a village:-

On Chelsea Embankment, a lampstand by the Coalbrookdale Iron Foundry (with glimpses of Norman Foster through the trees beyond):-

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V&A Entrance Courtyard

I went back to see the new Entrance Courtyard at the V&A, having missed its opening.   It’s pretty impressive:  grandly complex geometries inserted elegantly into the old Boilerhouse courtyard of which scarcely a trace remains;  a luxurious black lacquered staircase turning down into the deeply dug exhibition space which currently looks like an empty football stadium before the installation of the autumn Opera exhibition;  and then back by another black lacquered staircase which snakes up to the shop, producing an Escher-like effect, with an interesting light brought down into the basement.   Only one small lift.   What will happen when the lift breaks down ?   Otherwise, it’s all very spacious and impressive, creating good open public, as well as exhibition, space (the café is open till 9), and making it possible to appreciate the quality of Aston Webb’s detailing, newly scrubbed up.  

The hole in the courtyard:-

The view down the entrance staircase:-

Back up:-

The entrance to the Blavatnik Hall:-

Beautiful detailing on the steps:-

And Aston Webb newly revealed:-

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Royal Trafalgar Hotel

I had a slight frisson last night as I was walking across Leicester Square and spotted the top of the Trafalgar Hotel across a huge and vacant building site.   Described by Pevsner as ‘a period piece’, it was designed by Charles Pike & Partners in 1967.   Looks like a survival from Comintern:-

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St. Martin-in-the-Fields

I was able to bide my time before an evening event at the National Gallery not by watching Formula One racing on a big screen, but by admiring the stonework on the façade of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, a church which in theory I know very well having worked in its shadow for thirteen years, but which suffers from over-familiarity, from not being robustly baroque or purely Palladian, and from multiple reproduction in our former colonies.   The church was designed by Iacobi Gibbs ArchiTectus, cost £33,661 16s 7d. and was completed in December 1724, although the inscription carved on the tympanum gives the date as MDCCXXVI:-

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Burlington Gardens

I have been waiting for a moment when the sun shines on the north façade of James Pennethorne’s building in Burlington Gardens to celebrate the fact that the scaffolding is at long last coming down, revealing the freshly cleaned and differently coloured stonework as well as the statuary in its newly restored glory.   At which point, it is maybe worth saying that if any of my readers wants to buy association with one of the statues, there are several, including Archimedes, Plato and Goethe, still available:-

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Harold Falkner

I have been fascinated by the comments about Harold Falkner about whom I knew nothing at all, but clearly should have done because he was so important to the preservation of Farnham, Surrey.   He was a child of the town, educated at its grammar school, studied at its School of Art before completing his articles under Reginald Blomfield and lived his whole life there, running his architectural practice from his house in West Street and designing its public swimming baths aged twenty one.   Much of his best work was at Dippenhall on the north west of the town, where he and his brother owned property and where he built a series of idiosyncratic, neo-medieval houses, based on free sketches, using architectural salvage, and free from any interference of bureaucratic controls.

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Ministry of Justice

Following the correspondence a week or so ago about the virtues or otherwise of Basil Spence’s Ministry of Justice building, I passed it in the evening light and stopped, if not to admire it, at least to examine its incredible hulk.   It was built not for the Home Office as I’d thought, but as a speculative development to replace an old mansion block.   It was completed in 1976 by which time I thought brutalism had fallen from favour, but remains as a grand monument to its genre with a curious belt like a railway track running round its roofline (they were apparently modelled on medieval Italian fortresses):-

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Canals

I have been looking at my images of canals which I took this morning – some very standard, one more esoteric.

This is the lower reach of the Limehouse Cut, which was approved by Act of Parliament in 1767 and opened in 1777:-

Then, the first lock on the Regent’s Canal:-

And, finally, the River Lea as it passes the London Stadium:-

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