MONA

First up in my Google newsfeed this morning is a long article about the revamp of MONA: how well Google knows my interests, because MONA plays a prominent part in the last section of my book. It’s such a determined and, I think, successful attempt to break out of the conventions of the traditional museum – underground, no labels, no easy route, so purely exploratory, information provided in different voices on handsets, art that is deliberately provocative, focussed on sex and death, all of it now a very important part of Tasmania’s tourist economy.

So what are his answers to COVID ? Go local, turn up the volume, make himself more the centrepiece, and serve cheaper burgers, all good lessons, I suspect, for other museums.

https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/dec/30/tasmanias-mona-gets-a-major-revamp-but-will-it-lure-the-locals

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London Bookstores

To parallel the list of New York bookstores I discovered yesterday, I’ve been thinking about my top ten London ones which specialise in architectural books. It’s a vicarious substitute for being able to visit them, part of life which is now missing.

1. The AA Bookshop

The best by quite a long way is what I still think of as the Triangle Bookshop on the ground floor of the Architectural Association, named after a bookshop in the Triangle in Kennington, invariably well stocked, good on architectural theory, good on city guides, perfect for browsing, with very helpful staff. A great bookshop.

2. The RIBA Bookshop

I used to find the RIBA bookshop a bit too technical for my taste, a few too many engineering manuals, but it’s got much better with a good general stock, including, which I like, a whole section of architectural guides.

3. John Sandoe

I seldom make it to the King’s Road, but when I do am impressed by the way such a small shop manages to be so packed with books I want and it’s very knowledgeable and helpful staff. They were the only shop allowed to sell the special edition of my book on East London and will now take advance postal orders for my book on museums.

4. Daunt’s

I always use the branch at the top of Marylebone High Street, really a travel bookstore, but such a wonderful one, with its Edwardian glass-roofed area at the back, first opened in 1912, where the world is laid out systematically and topographically, so that one can explore the globe.

5. Heywood Hill

I have to include Heywood Hill for my older brother’s sake who gave me my book addiction and sold me the entire reading list for my Cambridge course in architectural history. I used to be an account customer which meant that one never knew how much a book cost until the hand-written bill arrived at a later date. It’s always been strong on architecture and probably still is.

6. Hatchard’s

I have never enjoyed Hatchard’s quite as much as when its art department up on its second floor was run, rather fiercely, by Maureen Boland and Baron Nicolas van den Branden de Reeth, but it still has a very good stock of current architectural books, erring towards the luxurious end of the market and away from the scholarly.

7. Foyle’s

Foyles has been expensively and successfully revamped with its architecture section near the entrance on the ground floor, good just because it is still on such a big scale, so able to stock in depth.

8. Artwords Bookstore

It’s always a pleasure to come across Artwords on Rivington Street in Shoreditch, good on art, but good on architecture too.

9. Broadway Books

I think of it as my local bookstore at the bottom end of Broadway Market, always well and thoughtfully stocked and good for Christmas shopping, but not this year.

10. Page’s of Hackney

Last, a plug for Page’s of Hackney because I admire the fact that there is a proper, well-stocked, local bookshop on the Lower Clapton Road.

I’m sure I’ve missed some, including Ian Shipley who closed some time ago. It makes me realise what an important part bookshops still play in my world beyond the parcel deliveries.

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New York Bookstores

I have had unexpected pleasure from finding the attached list of New York architectural bookstores. It gives an opportunity for vicarious browsing, as well as listing stores I don’t already know.

I thought I still had a bookmark from McNally Jackson, his favourite New York store as well as mine, but they only allow one bookmark per purchase which means they are always in short supply, as opposed to the bookmark of University Press Books in Berkeley, California, my second favourite, of which I still have a plentiful supply in spite of not having visited the store since 1991. Also, the Corner Bookstore on Madison at 93rd. which was a benefit of staying in the Hotel Wales.

https://archidose.blogspot.com/p/nyc-bookstores.html?m=1

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Museum reflections

Over much of the last year, I have been trying to figure out what the effect of COVID will be on museums, not least as I tweaked the Conclusion to my book on museums, which is being published by Thames and Hudson in March (just in case you’ve forgotten !): budget cuts, of course; less travel; probably fewer blockbusters because they are so expensive to organise.

I was prompted to write the attached by the publication of András Szántó’s very timely interviews with museum directors internationally, which were surprisingly consistent in heralding, and indeed promoting, a move away from their permanent collections:-

https://thecritic.co.uk/issues/january-february-2021/out-with-the-old-masters/

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Travel in Europe

I have been trying to figure out what I will need to do in order to travel in Europe which on Friday becomes another place, hedged about with restrictions and lethal bureaucracy, as the Brexiteers apparently wanted and have promised.

I need to check our passports to make sure they are not going to run out in the next six months. Obtain special health insurance which will be very expensive. Get a green card which may take six weeks. Oh, and by the way, my wife’s blue parking badge which used to allow disabled parking in Europe for Brits will no longer work, making travel exponentially much trickier. But this is, of course, the Brave New World we have all been promised. No downside. Only glorious freedom – the freedom of staying at home with the Union Jack flying outside.

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Christmas morning

It’s Christmas morning and I realise that we are all meant to be whooping with joy at the agreement of a trade deal which allows us to continue trading on much reduced terms and with vastly much greater bureaucracy, as if this is somehow a gigantic achievement rather than a totally needless and self-inflicted wound, the result of an entirely puerile desire for notional independence in an inter-connected world. But, then, I suppose that like most people I feel a small sense of relief that there is at least a deal, not exactly oven ready, nor a piece of cake, but something to study and ponder over what’s left of the turkey.

Happy Christmas !

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New pics

Attentive readers of my blog, who look at it on a PC and not a mobile phone, may spot that I have diversified the photographs a bit: partly because it is a bit boring always to have the same ones; partly because I have realised that I am post-corporate and do not have to have a standard image; and partly because COVID means the world has changed. I am grateful to the photographers, some of whom are friends, and most of whom I can identify, hoping that they don’t mind me cannibalising images which they did not necessarily expect to see reproduced in large.

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Bach

In listening to Bach as composer of the week this morning, I remembered that a while ago David Tang conscripted me to give a talk that he was supposed to be giving to the London Bach Society. I could not remember what on earth I could have said to a group of assembled music lovers. So, I looked it up and post it as a thought for Christmas:-

In thinking about what I should say about Bach, I decided to re-read a book which I bought when it first came out — James Gaines’s Evening in the Palace of Reason — which I originally bought in the bookshop of the Getty Museum in California and read in the aeroplane on the way back.   I do not know how it is regarded by experts:  probably just as a work of popular history.   But for me at least, it is a good introduction to that world of the late Holy Roman Empire, of small courts and Lutheran churches, which Bach inhabited in what is now southern Germany and was then Thuringia and the Electorate of Saxony — Eisenach, where Bach was born, Ohdruf where he moved after the death of his parents when he was nine, Lüneburg, far to the north near Hamburg, where he moved aged fifteen to take up a choral scholarship, Weimar, where he served in the ducal kapelle, Arnstadt where he became church organist, and Köthen, north of Leipzig, where he was Kapellmeister to the Prince.

Gaines’s book taught me two things which I did not know and which I would like to reflect on.   The first is that, in many ways, Bach’s music was profoundly conservative, dedicated to the piety of traditional Lutheranism and the profundity of spiritual experience at precisely the time when music and the movement of thought were moving towards the more rational and secular pleasures of the Enlightenment courts.   Those of you who have read the book will remember that it is constructed round the moment when, right at the end of his life, Bach visits his son, Carl Philip Emanuel, who was the chief harpsichordist at the court of Frederick the Great in Potsdam.   He arrives in Potsdam having travelled over two nights by coach from Leipzig.

Frederick, who, as a youth, had been very keen on music (to the fury of his brutal father) hears that Bach is in town and summons him to the palace.   The Emperor sets Bach a test of creating a three-part fugue.   Bach passed the test triumphantly to the admiration of the audience, as was reported in the newspaper the following day.   The Emperor then asks him to make it into a fugue for six voices.   Bach is unable to do it on the spot and goes home to Leipzig somewhat humiliated.   He then composes The Musical Offering as a statement of his musical beliefs and a demonstration of his extraordinary compositional skills:  his belief that music is ultimately an aspect of theology, a way of understanding the music of the spheres, and not of superficial pleasure;  he shows what can be done with supreme mastery of counterpoint at a time when counterpoint was going out of fashion.

The second thing that Gaines’s book taught me, which I had not known, was the extent to which Bach’s music was nearly totally forgotten for more than a half century after his death, that he himself never heard the B Minor Mass, that it was only in the early nineteenth century that the work of Bach began to be rediscovered — in England, following the performance by Samuel Wesley of Jesu, meine Freude in the Hanover Square Rooms in 1809 (this was the performance space which, by the way, had been established in the 1770s by Johann Christian Bach) and, in Germany, in 1829, when the St. Matthew Passion was again played in Berlin under the auspices of Felix Mendelssohn who inherited the manuscript from his teacher, Carl Friedrich Zelter.   As you will all know, in the nineteenth century, the awareness and appreciation of Bach was dependent on large choirs.   This was one of the reasons why the London Bach Society was established by Paul Steinitz in 1947, as well as of the Tilford Bach Festival in 1952 — in order to get back to the original sound of the works of Bach, so that his music can be heard in the way that it was originally composed.

I find this aspect of Bach’s life and absence of immediate posthumous fame rather moving and I wish I had known about it before.   Here we are celebrating the life of a composer who we all regard as one of the greatest composers who has ever lived.   I am one of those people who heard the conductor on Desert Island discs (or have I imagined this ?), who when asked what music he wanted played said ‘Bach’;  and then the second time, he said ‘Bach’;  and then the third time;  and so on until the end of the programme.   But at the time that Bach wrote his music, it was increasingly unfashionable and was scarcely played after his death, much less so than the more fashionable music of his son, Carl Philip Emanuel.  

I would like you to ponder this, because I think it suggests a profound and too often forgotten truth.   We do not necessarily know who amongst the current artists of today are going to be admired in a century’s time.   Tastes in music, as in the visual arts, can radically change.   If Bach can be forgotten and then, a century later rediscovered, so too can any number of contemporary artists, composers and, perhaps, writers too.   So, we should not be too confident of our own judgment.   There is such a thing as the judgment of history.   To some, it may be possible to say, there is hope.

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